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Competition “The Coolest Class” Balzhirova Handa Tsydendorzhievna MAOU Ivolginskaya Secondary School My dream house

Happy is he who is happy at home. L.N. Tolstoy

A house, as everyone has known for a long time, is not a wall, not a window. Not even chairs and a table, this is not a house. Home is where you are ready to return Again and again, furious, gentle, Good and evil, barely alive... Home is where you will be understood, Where they hope and wait, where you will Forget about the bad - this is your home!

When the sun is warm - when the mother is good. In your own family the porridge is thicker. The bird is happy about spring, and the baby is happy about its mother. Being a guest is good, but being at home is better. A house is beautiful not because of its corners, but because of its pies.

Children are not a burden, but a joy. A bird is strong with its wings, a family is strong with friendship. The deeper the roots, the higher the crown. Parental home is the beginning. There is no sweeter friend than your own mother.

In the old days it used to be like this among the Buryats: If suddenly they start talking about their ancestors, They will count on their fingers up to the twentieth generation, All grandfathers, great-grandfathers, and great-great-grandfathers will be taken into account! N.Damdinov

My dream house Project

Let everyone in the Alenovsky house bypass adversity. Let the soul sing, Never hurt. And let the light of this small candle of Love burn in every home.

On the topic: methodological developments, presentations and notes

Grandma of my dreams

Every year in Russia, on the last Sunday of November, Mother's Day is celebrated. What do we value most in a woman? What makes her a Woman? Beauty? Charm? Mind? Business qualities? I think that...

1. Justification of the problem and need that has arisen. I have always dreamed of having my own home. And for this I began to think about how and what it could be built from. Buying a finished house is very expensive, and I wanted something unusual. Residential building is architectural structure, which would satisfy all our needs for light and heat, air and water. The house creates conditions for work, communication and entertainment. So, when I substantiated the problem and need that had arisen, I immediately understood: it was decided, I would build a house. The house has made a person less dependent on natural conditions - under the roof and outside the windows he is no longer afraid of rain and cold, winds and heat. However, it took several dozen centuries for people to learn how to design and build. External and internal improvement of houses requires the development of a rational layout of your home, the ability to design and manufacture various equipment, perform artistic and finishing work, properly lay sewerage, heating and electrical networks, etc. Anyone can successfully cope with these works, having the necessary reference data and strictly observing the norms and rules of sanitation and fire safety. Various works related to the manufacture of stoves and fireplaces are usually carried out by specialists, however, in order to first select the appropriate type of stove or fireplace, determine the necessary materials and their quantity, we should contact either a consultant for construction work or special literature . I need to think. 2.1 thinking about the project. Time - how long will it take me to solve this problem. To make it easier for me to work on the project, I presented all the questions in the form of a thinking diagram.

Identifying the basic requirements So, having substantiated the problem that has arisen, I must highlight the basic requirements for the project of the future house. the house should be modern and cozy, with sufficient space; it should be comfortable for both adults and children; the house must withstand wind loads and slight vibrations of the ground;

A one-story house with an attic is designed to accommodate a family of 3-4 people. The character of the house's facades is formed by two powerful hexagonal bay windows. On the ground floor, partitions separate the entrance block, which includes an entrance hall, staircase, technical room and bathroom. The rest of the floor is occupied by the living room, dining room, kitchen, combined into one space, and an office equipped with a fireplace. In the future, the office can be combined with the living room. From the living room there is access to the veranda through a wide swing door. From the ground floor there is direct access to the garage and workshop. The attic floor of the house is a zone of personal premises. From the attic hall there is a view into the double-height living room space.

Description: Foundations - pile. External walls are made of foam blocks. The floors are monolithic reinforced concrete. Roof covering - tiles. GROUND FLOOR: 1. Tambour - 5.1 m2 2. Hallway - 4.4 m2 3. Kitchen - 15.9 m2 4. Living room - 33.0 m2 5. Bathroom - 3.0 m2 6. Hall - 9.2 m2 7. Boiler room - 8.5 m2 8. Garage - 20.9 m2 SECOND FLOOR: 1 Corridor - 7.8 m2 2. Bedroom - 15.5 m2 3. Bedroom - 13.6 m2 4. Bathroom - 3.3 m2 5. Bathroom - 1.7 m2 6. Bathroom - 5.5 m2 7. Bedroom - 18.7 m2

A beautiful building made in architectural style eclecticism with modern elements will not leave anyone indifferent. The character of the building’s facades is formed by arched openings, bay windows topped with a hipped roof, and rusticated walls with natural stone, which gives the house a special elegance and color. The composition of the premises is optimal and corresponds high level comfort. A well-tasteful layout predetermines the presence of interesting interior solutions. For example, the round veranda in the living room is made in the form of a rotunda, and the fireplace is decorated with columns. All these architectural techniques and interior solutions are enhanced by the double-height living room space. Billiard room 26.0 Dressing room 6.0 Bedroom 12.0

Inserting a picture Stone materials Various stone materials are used to lay the foundations of houses, plinths, pillars, walls, and also as fillers for concrete and mortars. Brick is one of the main building materials. Red brick is used to lay foundations, walls, pillars, partitions, stoves, baked pipes, etc. Silicate, as well as hollow, perforated, porous bricks are used only for laying walls, pillars, partitions; These types of bricks are not suitable for kiln work. Autoclaved cellular (artificial stone) is lightweight, does not sink in water, is durable, and can be processed easily, like wood. In a room built from such material, a microclimate is created that is close to the microclimate of wooden houses. Houses made of cellular concrete are 12-15% more economical than brick ones in terms of cost and % more economical in heating costs. Foundation blocks are artificial stone obtained by hardening a mixture consisting of sand, crushed stone and cement and water. Its dimensions are 50X60X240 and 40X60X240. Rubble stone, torn Slab (flagstone) red bedded brick Stone materials cobblestones-boulders silicate hollow perforated porous Autoclaved cellular concrete (artificial stone)

Inserting a picture in Cementing materials These materials are used to prepare mortar or concrete. They are divided into air (clay, lime, gypsum) and hydraulic (cement, special binders). Airborne ones harden only in air and are washed away by water; hydraulic, starting to harden in air, continue to harden in water. Clay is made up of different minerals, so it comes in different colors. Serves as a binding material for the preparation of clay mortars used in laying stoves, plastering, making bricks, adobe walls, etc. There are thin, medium and fat clays. Skinny ones are often used in their pure form, a little sand is added to medium ones, and more to fatty ones. Refractory or refractory bricks are made from refractory clay for laying bricks. Cements are used for the production of concrete and reinforced concrete structures and the preparation of high-strength mortars. There are Portland cement, plasticized Portland cement, slag Portland cement, and pozzolanic Portland cement. All these cements have different grades: Portland cement - 400, 500, 550, 600; quick-hardening Portland cement - 400 and 500, slag Portland cement - 300, 400, 500; quick-hardening Portland slag cement - 400. These are the best hydraulic binders, hardening as if in air for quite a long time (usually within 28 days). The beginning of setting should occur no earlier than 45 minutes and no later than 12 hours after mixing the dough. Lime - boiling liquid - quicklime, grayish in color, ground (ring, magnesian and dolomite). It is divided into fast-extinguishing (8 minutes), medium-extinguishing (up to 25 minutes), and slow-extinguishing (over 25 minutes). Lime paste is obtained by adding sand, ground slag, pumice dust, etc. to lime. Construction gypsum is a white or grayish finely ground powder. Widely used in plastering work as an additive to limestone mortar, speeds up their setting and increases strength. This is the only binding material that can be used in its pure form. Black binders (bitumens and tars) are black and dark brown. Used for waterproofing work. These substances are waterproof, waterproof, elastic, and weather resistant. When heated, they soften (liquefy), and when cooled, on the contrary, they become more viscous and even hard. Binding materials: lean, refractory clays Lime - quick-quenching boiling pot Pozzolanic Portland cement cement slag Portland cement medium-fat Portland cement Plasticized Portland cement slow-quenching, medium-quenching building gypsum Lime paste black binding materials (bitumens and tars)

Inserting a picture Mortars and concrete Mortars and concrete are the most important materials for constructing foundations, erecting stone walls and other construction work. Construction mortars are a mixture of inorganic binder, fine aggregate and water in a certain proportion. They are used for masonry and finishing. Based on strength, the following grades are distinguished: 4, 10, 25, 50, 75, 100, 150 and 200 (the grade of the solution is the compressive strength of cube samples measuring 7.07\7.07\7.07 cm). The strength of the solution increases depending on the hardening time and temperature. When hardening in hot work, provide humidity conditions. Concrete is an artificial stone obtained by hardening a given composition of a mixture of a binder component, water, coarse and fine aggregates. Their brands are characterized by the tensile strength of cube samples with an edge of 15 cm at 28 days of age. Heavy concrete, with a density of kg/m3, has grades, light concrete, with a density of kg/m3, has grades

Inserting a picture Fastening and insulating materials When building a house, various metal products and insulating materials are used. Nails can have a length from 6 to 250 mm and a diameter from 0.7 to 8 mm. To fasten floor boards, wall cladding and partitions, nails should be 3 times longer than the thickness of the boards being nailed. It is best to drive them in not straight, but at a slight angle to the board being nailed. In this case, they hold more firmly. Screws are used to fasten hinges and wooden parts. They come with a countersunk, semi-concealed and semicircular head. Their length ranges from 6 to 120 mm, diameter - from 1.5 to 10 mm, head diameter - from 3 to 20 mm. Capercaillie are large screws of various lengths and diameters with a square or hexagonal head. They are used to fasten wooden parts together. Bolts come in different lengths and diameters. They are used to connect various parts. Staples for fastening rafters and racks can be straight or reverse. They are made from square or round steel with a diameter of 10 to 19 mm. The length of the staple may vary. Notches are required at the ends to help better hold the staple in the wood. Hinges are divided into hinged with a removable rod, semi-hinged with a rod fixedly embedded in one card, and hinged with a rod that cannot be removed from the hinge. The length and width of the loop cards vary. Sheet window glass is used in thicknesses of 2, 2.5 and 4 mm. It is produced in various sizes. The glass is secured with pins, and the flanges are sealed with coating or covered with glazing beads. Tow is a waste product from hemp or flax. Used for caulking work. Treated with antiseptics or resin, it lasts longer. Felt comes in sheets of varying sizes and thicknesses, made from low-speed wool or mineral fiber. It is a good insulator. To prevent the felt from being destroyed by moths, it must be treated with a 3% solution of fluoride stone. Fastening and reinforcing materials hinges with a removable rod, semi-hinged with a rod immovably embedded in one card, hinged nails with a rod that cannot be removed from the hinge, screws, blind bolts, staples, sheet glass window, felt

Inserting a picture Roofing materials Hard and soft, or rolled, roofing materials are used to cover the roof. Roofing cardboard is intended as a basis for bitumen or tar roofing and waterproofing materials. Roll width – 750 mm, weight – from 250 to 420 g/m2. Roofing glassine is a lining material for the lower layers of roofing carpet made of roofing felt. It is made from roofing cardboard and impregnated with petroleum bitumen. Rolls have an area from 20 to 40 m2 and a weight from 13 to 30 kg. Roofing felt is produced by impregnating roofing cardboard with soft petroleum bitumen, then applying refractory petroleum bitumen with filler and topping to both sides of the sheet for roofing, lining and waterproofing. Sticks on bitumen mastic. Roofing felt with coarse-grained topping on the front side and dusty on the back is intended for the top layer of the carpet. Brands: RKK-500A, RKK-400A, RKK-400B and RKK-400V. Roll area – 7.5 m2, weight – 24, 25, 27 and 29 kg. Roofing felt with fine-grained topping is used for the top and bottom layers of roofing carpet and waterproofing. Brands: RKM-350B AND RKM-350V. Roll area – 10 m2, weight 25 and 27 kg. Lining roofing felt with fine-grained topping is used for the lower layers of roofing carpet and roll waterproofing. Brands: RPM-300A, RPM-300B, RPM-300V. Roll area – 10 m2, weight – 22 and 24 kg. Roofing felt is made from roofing cardboard, impregnated twice with tar products and sprinkled with coarse-grained or sandy powder. There are roofing and waterproofing. The first is intended for the installation of the upper and lower layers of the carpet, the second is for waterproofing various building structures and the lower layers of the roofing carpet. roofing materials cardboard roofing roofing lining sheet steel sheet roofing (metal tiles roofing felt glassine roofing waterproofing clay tiles grooved stamped flat strip grooved strip ridge sheets asbestos-cement flat sheets asbestos-cement wavy (slate)

Inserting a picture Wood materials Wood and wood materials are used together in construction work, equipping houses, making furniture, etc. Let's overcome the most important of them. Construction timber (timber) is divided into round and sawn. Round timber is accounted for and sold in cubic meters. The main species common in Belarus are conifers, primarily pine, as well as spruce. They are straight-trunked and, due to the presence of resin, are more resistant to rot than soft-leaved ones, therefore they are the best wood for construction. The diameter of coniferous logs is taken in even centimeters in the top cut without bark, and the length is taken in meters. By diameter, round timber is divided into sawlogs (from 14 cm and above), construction logs (12-26 cm), logs (8-12 cm) and poles (3-7 cm). When purchasing round timber, it is necessary to calculate the volume of each log, and it should be taken into account that the diameter of the log varies along the length (due to the presence of the so-called runoff, which is 0.5 - 1.0 cm per 1 m of length). To determine the volume of logs, use a special table. Lumber is obtained by longitudinal division of logs. The classification of lumber involves their division according to cross-sectional shape, thickness, length, nature and degree of processing, location in the log, cutting methods and purpose.

How to build a house A HOUSE DESIGN IS THE BEGINNING OF ALL WORK. First, I developed the concept of the object of my creativity. Completed the project general view: what it will be like outside and inside, at the next stage I translated the mental image born in my head into an image: drawing, drawing, layout. Then I thought out in detail the design of the future house, the heating system, plumbing system and energy saving, sewerage and ventilation. After all, in addition to its own weight, the building must also withstand wind loads, and even possible vibrations during earthquakes. Each house requires interior decoration, for example: ceilings and walls must be smooth, covered with special facing materials or painted, doors and windows must correspond to window and door openings, open and close well, in the bathroom walls require tiling or other water-repellent coating.

Technology of construction work 1. First, with the help of earth-moving machines (bulldozers, graders, excavators), they level the surface of the construction site, dig trenches for laying external sewerage, water supply and gas networks in them. 2. Then, using excavators, they dig a pit and trenches for the foundation. If the soil is weak, the building is installed on reinforced concrete piles, which are driven using pile driving machines. The concrete pad is poured. 3. Prefabricated foundation blocks are placed in the trenches, and basement wall blocks are placed in the pits along the foundation blocks. Reinforced concrete floor slabs are laid on the basement walls. 4. Upon completion of underground construction work, they proceed to the construction of the above-ground part of the building. 400 mm foam concrete, partitions, window and door blocks are installed along the perimeter of the building, and a roof is laid. 5. Along with general construction work, special work is being carried out on the construction and installation of a water supply and sewerage network, a heating system, water pipelines are being installed, electric lighting and telephone lines are being laid.

Inserting a picture economic justification for the item Name of material Conditional price per unit. measurements rub. Material consumption for the product Material costs 1Foundation blocks 1,700 per piece PPS slabs p8 500 per piece Foam concrete blocks 400 mm per 1 m Sand1,000 per 1 t Cement1,400 per 1 t Stone800 per 1 m Board3,500 per 1 m Beam3,500 per 1 m Windows plastic6,500 per 1 piece

Self-assessment I will analyze the stages of the project and mentally ask myself: have I done everything I planned? Am I happy with him? Do I want to fix anything in it? What stages of the project were the most labor-intensive for me? What knowledge and skills were needed to manufacture the project product?

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Brief description of the object

A one-story house designed to accommodate a family of 3-4 people. The house has a spacious living room with a fireplace, a kitchen-dining room and three bedrooms.

Technological process during operation: temperature humid conditions (t - up to -5°C, humidity 70-80%), thermal insulation (up to 3.5 m2 0C/W), airborne noise insulation index is 50-60 decibels, pH level is about 11-12.

Technical and economic indicators:

• Building area (sq.m.) – 154.3
• Total area of ​​the house (sq.m.) –233
• Construction volume (cub.m.) – 563

Estimated cost of construction of a residential building

• For finishing – 2,457,481 (RUB 16,832 per sq.m.)
• Box – 1,776,450 (RUB 12,168 per sq.m.)

Material consumption:

• Concrete – 47 cubic meters.
• Cement - 8.5 tons
• Sand – 35 cubic meters.
• Reinforcement – ​​2 tons
• Fireclay clay – 40 kg.
• Timber converted to round timber – 26 cubic meters.
• Durisol DSs 37.5/14 blocks – 707 pcs.
• DurisolDm 15/9 blocks - 553 pcs.

Materials for building a house:

• Foundations - prefabricated reinforced concrete
• External walls – Durisol blocks
• Floors - Durisol blocks
• Roof covering – metal tiles, soft roofing tiles
• Exterior finishing – plaster
• Base – natural stone

Engineering equipment: power supply from village electrical networks; gas supply from the village gas pipeline; water supply from the village water supply; sewer cesspool device; heating hot water supply from the boiler; radio connection from the village radio station.

House plan

Technology of building a house from DURISOL blocks

I imagine my dream home built from modern Durisol blocks, made from wood chips and cement, designed for monolithic construction without the use of binding mortars or adhesives. In my opinion, the Durisol building system perfectly combines time-tested natural building materials such as wood and stone in a new, modern form. I believe that these blocks are ideal for our area in terms of their properties:

• Fireproof: Durisol blocks meet fire safety requirements, being a low-flammable (group G1), low-flammable (group B1) building material with low smoke-generating ability (group D1), non-propagating flame (group P1), low toxicity (group T1).
• Resistant to mold and mildew: the material has highly alkaline characteristics (pH level about 11-12), which, along with the property of the material not to absorb moisture, prevents the growth of mold and the development of fungi.
• Weather resistant: the material is frost-resistant and can withstand sudden temperature changes (more than 300 cycles), practically does not absorb moisture, which allows you to store the blocks under open air and carry out construction work in winter (at temperatures down to -5°C, concrete with additives).
• Functional: a range of block configurations (row, corner, end, universal) for partitions, external and internal walls with different load-bearing capacities makes it possible to create a variety of architectural forms and building layouts.
• Easy to process: the material is easy to cut, nail, drill and mill for laying utility channels in the walls or giving the necessary architectural configuration. The porous structure facilitates finishing with plaster compounds.
• Ecologically pure: produced on the basis of natural materials - wood and stone, does not emit harmful substances, does not pollute environment and is 100% recyclable.
• Heat saving: the design of blocks with polystyrene foam inserts for external walls prevents the formation of cold bridges and creates high thermal insulation (up to 3.5 m2 0C/W) of the concrete mass inside the wall, which accumulates heat and releases it back into the room after the heating is turned off.
• Reduces heat losses and saves energy consumption. Possessing high heat-saving characteristics, the wall made of Durisol blocks has a small thickness (max. 375 mm), which increases the usable area inside the room. Soundproofing
• : the structure of the wall material provides high sound insulation of the building's interior (the airborne noise insulation index is 50-60 decibels). This property, along with the material’s resistance to atmospheric influences, is also used for the construction of noise protection structures along highways and railways. Breathable

: the porous structure and design of the blocks ensure natural circulation of water vapor through the walls, establishing a balanced ratio of temperature and air humidity, which are the determining elements of the internal climate.

Preparatory work for masonry work

1. Preparation of materials for stone work
2. Sort blocks

• Prepare masonry mortar
• excellent thermal insulation (heat transfer resistance up to R=3.52 m2 - C/W) and heat accumulation;
• high sound insulation (up to Rw = 60 dB):
• minimal resistance to vapor diffusion: walls made of Durisol “breathe” perfectly, which ensures a comfortable microclimate;
• weather resistance, minimal level of moisture absorption, which allows the material to be stored on open construction sites and is also suitable for construction projects that do not require plaster;
• ease of use: the material is easy to cut, drill, nail, all construction work can be done independently;
• low labor intensity of work, which allows construction to be carried out in a short time at low costs.

Modern technology of monolithic construction of buildings and cottages based on permanent, environmentally friendly formwork DURISOL.

DURISOL is a technology unique in its combination of consumer properties for house construction. It is based only on natural ingredients: wood and stone. DURISOL is 80-90% made from coniferous wood chips, treated with mineral additives and bonded with Portland cement. This is an environmentally friendly, lightweight, strong and durable material. It has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics, a high degree of fire safety, is not susceptible to rotting, fungi and mold, and is frost-resistant.

DURISOL construction technology is based on the production and use of permanent formwork wall blocks of standard shape: 50 cm long, 25 cm high, and 15, 22, 25, 30 and 37.5 cm thick (depending on the functional purpose). Typical series contain blocks for the construction of load-bearing walls and interior partitions and blocks with insulating inserts for external walls with high heat-saving properties. The series also includes blocks for forming rows, corners and openings.

The process of installing walls made from DURISOL building blocks is simple and effective: they are installed on top of each other in four rows, after which the cavities in the blocks are filled with concrete. Then the next four rows are installed, etc. As a result, a monolithic concrete lattice with powerful vertical load-bearing pillars and horizontal row lintels is formed inside the wooden wall. Thanks to the macroporous structure of the material and the lattice cells, the wall “breathes”, and a comfortable microclimate is created in rooms built using DURISOL technology.

During installation, the use of highly qualified labor and heavy lifting equipment is not required (the weight of one block is 6-15 kg). DURISOL has increased adhesion to plaster compositions, which simplifies the process of finishing walls and, in total, leads to a significant reduction in labor intensity, work time and cost of the finished structure compared to traditional technologies.

DURISOL blocks are used for monolithic construction of residential (individual and multi-apartment) buildings, as well as administrative, public and industrial buildings.

Used Books.

1. A.M.Gorbov. Modern renovation of apartments and houses.
2. 2006
3. Magazines: “Rural Construction” for 2007-2010
4. I.I. Chicherin. Civil works Textbook M.: 2004.
5. I.P. Zhuravlev. Mason. Textbook for students of PU and lyceums.
6. O.N. Kulikova, E.I. Rolen. Occupational safety in construction. Textbook. M.: 2006
7. SN and P 12-03-99. Occupational safety in construction 4.1., general requirements.
8. Yu.O. Polekaeva. Construction drawing. Textbook. M.: 2004
9. GOST 25192-82 “Concrete and general technical requirements”

GOST 7473-94 “Concrete mixtures and technical conditions”.

State educational institution

"Artemovsk Specialized School No. 8"

PROJECT TOPIC

"My dream house"

PROJECT COMPLETED

6th grade students

PROJECT MANAGER

Borovik Galina Sergeevna

Artemovsk 2016

THEORETICAL PART

RATIONALE FOR CHOOSING THE TOPIC

Artemovsk 2016

Every boy is the future head of the family and the owner of the house, therefore, already in childhood, schoolchildren need to be introduced to the structure of a built home and instilled with economic skills for its improvement. Some of them will choose a profession in the field of construction, having received initial ideas about this already at school. This presentation is a student project on the topic of building a house, from planning to layout

OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT:

Learn how to complete layout projects

houses to scale, construction dreams come true

miniature houses

Project objectives:

Evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of the building

Artemovsk 2016

houses at the initial stage of project development

PRODUCT SELECTION, CONSIDERATION STAR

PRICE

MATERIALS

COLOR

TECHNOLOGY

EQUIPMENT

SOMETHING OF YOURS

Artemovsk 2016

USAGE

CRITERIA THAT THE PRODUCT MUST MEET

1 . Building style

2. Functionality

3. Dimensions and usable area

Artemovsk 2016

4. Architecture and layout

ASSESSMENT BY CRITERIA

2.Functionality

3.Dimensions

ASSESSMENT BY CRITERIA

2.Functionality

3.Dimensions

ASSESSMENT BY CRITERIA

2.Functionality

3.Dimensions

ASSESSMENT BY CRITERIA

2.Functionality

3.Dimensions

4.Architecture

Artemovsk 2016

• CONCLUSION: The students chose the product from photo No. 4, because the house meets all assessment criteria
• The problem with housing in our city is always relevant. Few new houses are being built, and the old ones are gradually falling out of use.
• One way to solve this problem is to build private houses.
• This project is a 2-storey residential building with an attic.

Artemovsk 2016

It can be located both within the city and in rural areas.

RESEARCH IN THE PROJECT – INFORMATION ANALYSIS

PRACTICAL PART

RESEARCH IN THE PROJECT – INFORMATION ANALYSIS

SELECTION OF EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, DEVICES

• Cardboard boxes, cardboard;
• Scissors
• Stationery knife
• Ruler, pencil

RESEARCH IN THE PROJECT – INFORMATION ANALYSIS

Sequence of operations

Drawing up a sketch.

Type of work

Each student in the class drew their own sketch. Some turned to other sources (books, the Internet) and made sketches based on them. After general discussion, the basic layout of the house was chosen.

Selection of materials

Distribution of duties

Students brought the necessary materials to make a model.

Each student chose their own model part and material for production

RESEARCH IN THE PROJECT – INFORMATION ANALYSIS

TECHNOLOGICAL SEQUENCE

Sequence of operations

Type of work

Layout production and design

Making a house model from cardboard

• Draw and cut out house details on cardboard boxes at a scale of 1:50
• Glue the walls, form a house and glue it to the cardboard base
• Cut and decorate windows and doors
• Cut and glue the roof to the house
• Decorate the space around the house, glue paths and flower beds

ECONOMIC PART

CALCULATION OF PRODUCT COSTS

Unit price

Cardboard boxes (waste material)

Printed sheets of paper with imitation brick

Quantity

Colored paper, glue

Price

ECONOMIC PART

• Making a model in full color (self-adhesive color film with full-color printing) using plastic, plexiglass, cardboard, wood and with simplified elaboration of object elements will cost the client from 500 USD. e. Production time is about a week.
• In our case, the cost was 50 rubles

ECOLOGICAL JUSTIFICATION

The project is made from environmentally friendly materials that do not emit chemicals and do not pollute the environment. These products evoke beauty, joy and admiration of people.

PHOTOS

PRODUCT MANUFACTURE

PHOTOS

READY PRODUCT

Creative project:

PROJECT TOPIC

Completed:

student of Municipal Educational Institution Secondary School No. 2 Chernukhin Roma

Checked:

technology teacher, Municipal Educational Institution Secondary School No. 2

Mamadysh -2007

1.Technical information

2. Why did I choose this topic?

3. Location of the site near the reservoir

4. Site layout

5. House, “Variety of lines”

6. Construction of a house

location

foundation

depth of soil freezing in major cities

how to prepare the site for laying the foundation

7. Water supply of the site and sewerage

pipe laying

sewerage

8. List of used literature

Technical details

The purpose of creating this project was the construction of a country house. The selected program allows you to work both with the technical side of construction and in design mode.

Program usedArConHome 2 “Visual Architecture” .

The program is shareware, taken from the Internet. The program was created by German programmers, is designed for similar projects, and contains huge libraries of objects and textures. But at the same time, it is easy to understand and can be mastered without consulting specialists.

Description of the program features used.

The program allows you to see the final result and identify possible problems (it is easier to prevent them at the initial stage of construction, when designing on paper or on a computer). You can think about the location of the house on the site so that snow melts off the roof in winter without difficulty, the house is not located too close to the road, and the bedroom windows are protected from the morning sun... In addition, you can calculate the necessary building materials and estimate approximate construction costs.

ArCon Home 2 “Visual Architecture” divides all design into 2 modules: construction mode and design mode.

In the design mode, the architectural characteristics of the plan are specified, all “building” elements of an apartment or house that are non-movable are designed. On the screen we see a drawing made without volume.

Design mode displays an image on the monitor screen that is identical to the real one (for example, consider the cover of this document). Here you can furnish your apartment, for which many pieces of furniture and accessories are provided.

It is possible to switch from construction mode to design mode and vice versa.

In design mode, ArCon uses textures to depict surfaces, to show, for example, the grain of wood or the pattern of wallpaper. In addition to this texture, each object has a second “skin” characteristic – material. When choosing a material, its properties are determined, for example, transparency, refraction, reflection, self-luminosity, etc. When viewing ready-made parts of a house (rooms or floors), ray tracing is used, which is also used when shooting video clips (accurate calculation of light taking into account all refractions, reflections, based, respectively, on the properties of the material of each of the furnishings). ArCon allows you to consider natural and artificial light. Artificial lighting is determined by the availability of sources.

Changes in natural light over a controlled period of time can be monitored after settings specific to the location of the planned building.

Using other programs in the project.

Along with the ArCon program, others were also used. To create textures, photographs were edited in Adobe Photoshop 6.0.

The sequence of viewing the proposed material, the necessary software and minimum system requirements.

After reading this document, you should watch the videos “Around the House (24 Hours)”, “Around the First Floor” and “The Creator’s Room. Attic". You can open them with a standard Windows Media Player (or other similar player) by left-clicking (with the CTRL key pressed) on the hyperlinks above or by opening each one in the “Video” folder in order.

1. WHY I CHOOSE THIS TOPIC

I chose this topic because when I finish school, I will enter higher education. educational institution. After finishing my studies, I will be able to find a job and I will have money to build a house with a large garden. It’s beautiful to go outside in the morning, breathe fresh and go about your business. The children will have fun and not be bored, because I will do everything so that they do not feel sad. My wife will look after the flowers and make sure we don’t go hungry.

At school I was taught how to build a house and I would only have minor problems during construction. The house is far from the city with a large plot, it is not just a house - it is paradise.

2. LOCATION OF THE AREA NEAR THE HOUSE

The site, located on the river bank, has certain advantages.

1. The view of a river, lake or other body of water will undoubtedly please the eye. Perhaps nothing can compare with relaxing on the shore, especially after hard work at the dacha. During leisure time it is nice to swim and sunbathe. In addition, I won’t have to spend money and effort on building a pool.

2. Another big plus is that if there is no running water on my site, then I will not have problems with watering. By installing a pump with a long hose, you can take water from the river. It is better to give plants warm water. And if I take it from a fast-flowing river, then the water is in a barrel or in a tank in the sun. If there is a lake or pond at hand, then such a need disappears.

3. The soil in the area not far from the reservoir is well moistened. Therefore, the plants grown there develop well.

But the location of a garden plot near a river, lake, pond and other natural bodies of water, in addition to its advantages, also has a number of serious disadvantages.

1. Soils near natural reservoirs are often waterlogged and require drainage. To drain wet or waterlogged areas, I dig trenches on the site about 1-1.2 m deep and about 2 m long. In swampy areas, I dig deeper ditches and place them closer to each other, directing them with a slight slope beyond the border of the garden, or I will lay pipes (collectors) or stones to drain excess water. I'll make the trenches open. If the excess moisture is only on the surface, then I will use shallow furrows. I'll make them along the beds. Water will go beyond the site, and blind furrows will waterlog the lower layer of soil.

2. The proximity of a reservoir creates strong air humidity. It contributes to the occurrence of various diseases in plants. Such, for example, as gray rot, powdery mildew, black leg. Therefore, for preventive purposes, I will carry out drainage - drainage of groundwater - or I will plant moisture-loving plants here

3. High air humidity near a pond is a favorable environment for mosquitoes and many other insects that can cause a lot of unpleasant sensations to humans. Therefore, I will take all necessary measures to protect myself from annoying insects: I try to wear clothes made of thick fabric, do not leave parts of my body exposed, and stock up on a large amount of repellent. Dampness is a favorable condition for the development of harmful insects, so you need to regularly treat plants with special solutions to destroy the pest.

4. Reptiles and amphibians are often found near bodies of water. Single burrows of snakes and lizards in the beds will not cause significant harm to the plants. However, bites from vipers and some other reptiles can seriously harm people. But the majority opinion about the poisonousness of reptiles is greatly exaggerated. If they settled next to me, I will not destroy them, since many of their species are on the verge of extinction and are listed in the Red Book. They will leave my area on their own because they cannot stand being close to humans.

3. SITE LAYOUT

After I bought a summer cottage, I need to look around, think about what and where I will put it. If it’s difficult for me to immediately find my way on my own, then it’s best for me to consult with specialists or at least with experienced gardeners and gardeners. It is very important to plan the site correctly, i.e. decide what and where I will plant and build.

The condition and development of plants mainly depends on the place where they are planted. To do this, I need to take into account the favorable and unfavorable conditions in different areas and in different parts of them. It is very important to choose a place for a garden, vegetable garden, beds, walking paths, since the growth and health of plants depends on this. If I rationally plan my garden and vegetable garden, I will not have problems with the harvest.

When choosing a place for a house, I must definitely take into account the location of neighboring buildings - how far they will be from my house, and whether they will interfere in the future. The house must be placed no closer than 7m from another large building and no closer than 8m from outbuildings: storage room, shower, shed and toilet. After everything is decided, I will think about where to place my garden and where my vegetable garden, i.e. Where should I plant fruit and berry crops, and where should I plant vegetables.

Vegetables should be grown in good, cultivated soil. To do this, it is necessary to add mineral and organic fertilizers. I enrich it with “vitamins”, the soil will reward with a rich harvest.

If my land is new, then in the first years, while the fruit crops have not yet grown, I should plant vegetables between the developing trees to prevent the growth of weeds.

When planning, I should not forget about a corner for the soul in my garden plot, in which I can plant flower plants, install, build mini-

pool or fountain, hang a hammock, put up garden furniture and enjoy a comfortable rest after working in the garden. A personal plot should first of all be cozy and comfortable. I must not only work on it, but also actively relax. A flower garden, a swimming pool, fountains and much more will decorate my “hacienda” and make it almost a piece of paradise.

At the dacha you need to take a break from a busy work week. And I can only achieve this if I plan my site correctly. I myself know how difficult it is sometimes to persuade children, especially teenagers, to go to the dacha, because they are so bored and don’t know what to do with themselves. I will leave room for a playground and a swimming pool. This will give them pleasure, and they will enthusiastically go to the dacha.

For kids, it would be nice to equip a playground with a sandbox, swings, a hammock and a sports tournament. True, this is only possible if the area is large enough.

Before plowing and laying out the plot, I drive in pegs in order to place the plot into different zones, I will do this first on paper, and all the advantages and disadvantages of my planning will immediately become clear to me. I can fix something, add something. If I get down to business right away, I’m unlikely to avoid mistakes. And if they are taken into account earlier when planning, then I will save both time and building materials.

Only after I have everything planned out on paper do I begin to delineate certain zones on the site. I am not flattered that I implemented my plan in one year. I don’t get discouraged if I don’t succeed right away. I prepared myself for the fact that it would not be possible to develop the plot of land so quickly, much less build a house.

I start by arming the fence. I can read about what materials are best used for fencing and how to install them in the chapter “Fence - aesthetically pleasing and practical.”

After the site is fenced, I begin laying out the garden and vegetable garden, as well as constructing various buildings.

For the first time, so that I have a place to hide from bad weather, I can buy a prefabricated garden house. It is very convenient and practical. Next year I will make garden paths, a utility block, and take care of the water supply. Of course, it is difficult for me to complete all the listed structures in one year, but gradually my site will begin to look civilized and well-groomed. I am not upset that I will not have time to complete the construction and planting of all the crops - haste will not lead to the desired result. Next year I will be able to complete most of it. The main thing is that I do everything one by one, I don’t try to immediately turn my plot into a blooming garden and a lushly growing vegetable garden - I’m unlikely to succeed in the first couple of years.

Before setting up a garden, I can’t do without basic tillage. I will tackle this, as is right, in early spring, after the snow has melted. First of all, I need to level the surface on the site: fill it up and loosen the dug up soil with a fork and rake. But before that I need to remove the fertile layer. After I have leveled the soil, I add the fertile layer again. Through various trenches, ditches and streams crossing the site, I can build a bridge that will not only decorate the garden, but will create favorable conditions for me to work.

In addition, at this stage of planning, garden and vegetable paths will begin to be laid. I will pay special attention to the path leading from the entrance to the porch of the house, that is, the central path.

After I have the main outbuildings ready and the garden and vegetable garden areas have been outlined, I will take care of the flower garden and recreation areas. Recreation area

I’d rather place it on the south side of the site. In order to create shade, you can protect it from the sun with pergolas with climbing plants planted near them, and equip benches with folding umbrellas or awnings. It will be convenient and pleasant for me to relax if I install a bench near a flower bed or a small pond.

Despite the humidity of the layout of the house, utility rooms, and recreation areas, the main concern of every summer resident is the placement of garden crops.

4. HOUSE, “VARIETY OF LINES”

The contours of this house combine clear straight lines and smooth curves. Decorative brickwork contrasts the imitated frames above the window and door openings from the plane of the facades, the vertical accent of the narrow arched window of the staircase.

The frame of the portal goes into the parapet of an elegant staircase, which also forms two large flower beds with arcs growing to the sides. The windows and doors are decorated with intricate floral patterns.

The kitchen, living room and dining room located on the ground floor form a single space, and on the second floor there is a private room with two comfortable bedrooms and a bathroom equipped in the bay window.

5. HOME CONSTRUCTION

LOCATION

Before I start building a country house, I need to decide where it will stand. I will carefully inspect the plot of land I have allocated to figure out where I can start laying the foundation. In doing so, I need to consider several factors:

Space for a vegetable garden. How correctly the middle of the site is allocated to him. I do this to ensure that all crops receive enough light and moisture. If I place a vegetable garden near the house, the yield will decrease, since nothing can be planted in close proximity to a building.

Space for a garden. It is better to lay out a garden around the house, or in the depths of the plot.

It would be better to place the house facing the street. But! The house cannot be placed close to the street. The best option is at a distance of 4-6 meters from the border of the site.

FOUNDATION

The need to build a foundation faces every builder. It's not easy considering the role she plays. This is the supporting part of any structure, designed to transfer the load of the entire structure to the ground. The service life of the entire building as a whole, its strength and durability depend on how well I built the foundation. It was estimated that the cost of the foundation is about 15% of the total cost of a country house. So I did some reading and thought about whether it’s worth purchasing low-quality and cheap building materials for the foundation and whether it’s worth building it carelessly and then suffering from your savings. I remember the wise proverb “the miser pays twice.” After all, in the end everything will affect the condition of my house.

Before I start laying the foundation, I need to consider the type of soil and, based on this, I decided which type would suit me best. I distinguish mainly between two types of foundation: artificial and natural. I do the natural one without any fortifications, when the soil is favorable for it. I always reinforce the artificial one with something, for example, sand. It is believed that the most reliable foundation is homogeneous soil, which has good and quite decent stability. In addition to one soil, there are:

1. Rocky soil - it is characterized by reliability and relative strength. In addition, it is not exposed to precipitation, and I do not have to worry about it getting wet or freezing.

2. Cartilaginous soil (gravel, stone fragments, cartilage) is distinguished by the fact that it will not shrink and will never get wet. As is correct, I will lay the foundation in such soil at a depth of 50-60 cm.

3. Sandy soil - due to the fact that sand is an integral part of this soil, it has good water permeability. As a rule, it does not freeze. In this case, I will lay the foundation to a depth of 50 to 70 cm.

4. Clay soil has good compressibility, but is quickly eroded. When freezing, there is a danger that it may swell. At the same time, I lay it at a considerable depth (70-80 cm).

As a rule, I lay the foundation at a depth just below the freezing depth.

SOIL FREEZING DEPTH

BY MAIN CITIES

100 cm – Rostov-on-Don, Astrakhan, Kyiv, Minsk.

120 cm – Volgograd, Pskov, Velikiye Luki, Kharkov, Smolensk.

140 cm – Moscow, St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Novgorod.

150 cm – Saratov, Vologda, Nizhny Novgorod, Penza, Kostroma.

170 cm - Kazan, Simbirsk, Samara, Izhevsk.

I take into account that laying the foundation and subsequent construction must be carried out in one construction season. I need to take this mandatory condition into account so that the foundation that has been laid, but has not received a superstructure in the form of walls, covers and a roof, does not become deformed. As a rule, it will be very difficult for me to correct this oversight in the future. A similar nuisance can also occur if the house was successfully built with heating in mind, but never received the operation it required. But, as a rule, country houses are not built with the expectation that they will be used in winter, so the heating mode is not included in the construction plan, hence I should not have any particular concerns that the foundation will deform.

HOW TO PREPARE THE SITE FOR

LAYING THE FOUNDATION

Before I start laying the foundation, I need to clear the selected area of ​​grass to a depth of approximately 10-15 cm. The area must be flat, so I will need to tear down all the small hills and fill up the holes or holes. After the site is ready, I need to place the boundaries of the foundation. For this I use a cord and a large square. I carefully measure the length and width of the foundation using a square and a cord, and drive a peg into each corner.

After which I need to fix the boundaries of the foundation. To do this, at a distance of a meter from the edge of the future trench along the outer perimeter of the foundation, I dig in wooden pillars or scraps of metal pipes so that they are in height

reached 20 cm. Then I attach a fishing line (or cord) to these posts, which is stretched so as to mark the rectangle of the foundation.

Once I have marked out the location for the foundation and recorded its boundaries, I begin working on the soil. To do this, I dig a trench along the perimeter of the borders and install a wooden shield with spacers in it - formwork that prevents the soil from drying out. If I do not use formwork, then in order to prevent the earth from crumbling and drying out, I lay the foundation immediately after excavating the soil.

If water gets into the dug trench, I need to remove the liquefied soil. I do this just before I start laying the foundation.

6. WATER SUPPLY OF THE SITE

AND SEWER

WATER METER

A water meter is a small well (shaft) measuring 90x100 cm, 120 cm deep, which, when connected to a water supply system, allows you to control the flow of water into the house. It contains a pipe coming from the main water supply.

As is correct, I install the water supply system after the house is built. The construction of a water meter is the responsibility of the plumber who makes the connection to the main line. I use a water meter when repairing water pipes when I need to stop the water.

The water meter shaft is installed from concrete. The shaft itself must be designed so that water does not flow into it and it is protected from temperature fluctuations. In the side wall I will make brackets from rebar that I can use as a ladder.

The pipe passing through the water meter has two valves. One of them is called a shut-off valve and is used to turn off the flow of water from the main water supply. The other is called a home water shutoff and serves to disconnect the home from its water supply. Between the valves there is a water meter itself, with which you can drain the water.

PIPE LAYING

I lay pipes in trenches located below the freezing level of the soil. In this case, it is desirable that the pipes with hot and cold water are located above each other at a distance of 16 cm, and the pipe with hot water is on top. The same can be said about laying pipes indoors. They are placed one above the other, with a pipe with hot water on top. When laying along the wall, it should be located below the cold water pipe. Every two meters I need to secure them with holders.

For internal water supply, I use threaded steel pipes and fittings (shaped pipes): elbows, bends, etc. Pipes can be of different diameters. It is determined in accordance with the amount of water consumed; as a rule, for a water supply system for one family, a diameter of 25 mm is more convenient. Depending on what kind of water will be drawn from one or another line, I choose the diameter of the other pipes. For example, for 7 taps - 25 mm, for 3 - 6 taps - 19 mm, for 1 - 2 taps - 12.5 mm.

I will supply the risers and pipes of the internal water supply with shut-off valves. This is necessary so that in the event of damage to the water point,

depressurization of the connection and in other situations, I would be able to turn off the water without closing the shut-off valve in the water meter.

SEWER

It is best if the holiday village already has a sewer network, to which I can connect by installing a house outlet, which must have a slope of at least 2% to drain wastewater.

The pipes must have a diameter of 30 cm (with corresponding figures). For neither, a U-shaped trench made of bricks, sprinkled with sand, is more suitable.

For the installation of internal sewerage, I accept pipes of various diameters: from 40 to 100 mm. It connects to ventilation ducts that exit above the roofs. I need this so that a vacuum of air is not created, which would interfere with the outflow of water. All plumbing fixtures must have siphons that prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors.

However, not all villages have a sewerage network, which creates various problems with wastewater disposal. I solve them in the following way.

I drain “clean” and fecal water separately. “Clean” ones pass through two wells, in which the water settles for some time, foreign impurities settle to the bottom of the well, and the water goes further, where it is distributed throughout the land by drainage pipes (located underground). “Clean” water includes that which flows from a washbasin, bathtub, or sink. The settling tanks are cleaned from time to time, with the first one having to be cleaned much more often. If there is a well on the site, then the settling tanks should be located no closer than 20 m from it. In addition, I place them in the direction opposite to the groundwater flow.

7. CONCLUSION

And in conclusion of the topic, I would like to say where you would like to live: in an apartment where neighbors often interfere, go down an untidy entrance, or live on the ground, breathe fresh air, where no one bothers anyone. Think for yourself.